Spanish Serenade

Deep ruby, a ridiculously abrupt edge and quite staining. Big dried flower and Kalamata try their best to unseat the massive black cherry and green, briary spice, volatile and–at certain points of the swirl–obfuscating everything in their earthy glow.

A lot of Paso Robles’ *outside* Rhone wine is sourced from Slide Hill in Edna Valley or even Santa Barbara, but here’s one getting pulled off of one of the coolest climate vineyard sites in California, Spanish Springs, just outside of Pismo Beach. This is a relatively young vineyard planted since I moved to this area but it has quickly achieved acclaim probably most decidedly from Raj Parr’s Evening Land project launching there. The point of all of this is of course how refreshing it is to see a region typically projecting a very warm weather approach to Rhone varieties embracing a chilly, foggy coastal hillside way out of town for, not pinot, not their albarino or chardonnay, but their actual Syrah–the supposed backbone of Paso Robles.

In the mouth, beautiful, clean, calm Syrah. Definitely going for concentration, this is the blackest, thickest–and probably highest alcohol–of anything I have had from Spanish Springs. I’m guessing it is well north of 14. This one is definitely not going for the young bright inexpensive in-your-face Northern Rhone style and is instead queuing up Hermitage and Cornas for style-points: dark brooding sweet goodness on the immediate surface and wet rope, leather, a brilliant lemon bite and chewed cigar clawing to get out directly beneath. And then of course VERY healthy tannins, which never overpower the relentless cherry.

This is pretty serious Syrah. And VERY nicely done.

2015 PER CASO WINES Syrah Spanish Springs Edna Valley 14.4

pasoportwine.com/Per-Cazo

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