Spanish Dancer

Dark dark ruby with a thin clear edge. Massive nose flies up at ya, crammed to the rafters with concentrated black cherry, Herbs de Provence, and a Hallelujah chorus of caramel, wet leather, and sweet mo-las-ses.

This is a big pinot, thick and warm, ranking up there with some of the more heady versions you find from Russian River Valley and Santa Lucia Highlands. And they did it with Spanish Springs fruit. Easily the biggest Spanish Springs Pinot I have had–most of them to date have been–OK I gotta be careful here because Pinot Noir is such a fickle beast–I’m not going to say thin, and definitely not going to say green, but the three or four Spanish Springs pinots I have had have all been *entry level* pinots. And not big concentrated things to woo cab & syrah drinkers, but easy-going, inexpensive entry-level pinots. Pinot people know what I mean. But this is NOT that wine. This is THICCC. Even though this is one if the 5 coolest-climate vineyards in California, Spanish Springs–at least the one’s I’ve tasted–do not bring to bottle the super vegetal, green Burgundian tendencies like Derbyshire, Stolo, and Riven Rock. Avila gets warm, and Bassi Ranch can crank out some stand-a-fork-up-in-it Pinot, and apparently, so does Spanish Springs.

I’m gonna have fun guessing the alcohol on this one, I can tell already. Ripe and juicy–and yes, a touch flabby–in the mouth, but it is ALL pinot, with all that curvy worn velvet–dusty and crushed–pulling funky wet-straw and black olive into play. Ridiculously elegant and sophisticated–both in the nose (maybe even a bit more in the nose) and on the palate, what year is this??? oh wow it’s a 2015. That explains a lot. It would have been really interesting to taste this young. A mouth-tingling claw of acid quickly morphs to etching tannin late-swirl, but it is frosted on all sides by the glowing Pinot paradigms which coat and cover everything in their glycerin-y reach. I am going to say 14-7.

I can count on two hands the number of pinots you get to taste in Paso (on ONE hand the number of pinots GROWN in Paso [thank dog]). This in an absolute must-try for all but the most die-hard of Burgundy & Oregon fans. This is definitely California, baby. Spanish Springs done really REALLY well.

2015 PER CASO Pinot Noir Spanish Springs Edna Valley San Luis Obispo County 14.6

percasowine.com

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