This is the most beautiful Pinot I’ve had this year. I know it is only February, but I have been through a lot of wine-years and it wouldn’t surprise me one bit if it stuck through to December. It’s THAT good. Are any of you into art? I have a substantial collection and people ask, How do you know to buy it? You just do. Instantly. It has nothing to do with the artist or the story or the medium or the price or provenance, it just speaks to you instantly and so overwhelmingly you just know. That’s this pinot.
Smoky brilliant and shrill pounded velvet, worn and creased, polished with tight oddly-shaped stone under running water, the dessert-nectar of all your hopes and dreams rides high on freshly hewn wood, a weedy meadow flush with blossom among remnants of winter and the luxurious hurriedness of encroaching hi-mountain dusk. A nose so elegantly perfect in all things pinot it defies explaination. Ethereal, peaty, pearly and peary, green and charred all at the same time, rusty shavings directly into the mouth where the varnish of sweet fruit eviscerates all notions of *wine analysis* and instead kneads ungodly beauty into every seam while you lie back helplessly hoping the sheer magnitude of this thing passes soon enough for you to catch your breath and actually survive.
It never overwhelms with straight ripeness, it never funkifies to where conversation is awkward, and it never creases to starched conformities of this or that professed ideal, the transparent unfiltered amber going obliquely down the razor-straight path of its own design. Mountain strawberry. Ridge-top redwoods. Ocean air. Cool valley smoke. Buttermilk. Pepperocini. Chocolate. Cedar siding. Stained glass.
Tune in the first week of December when I write my WOTY post and this is on it but it will be sold out by then and you will be sad. Beyond sad. Stupid and sad.
2015 WAITS-MAST Pinot Noir Anderson Valley Mendocino County 13.2