Cakewalk

Rather light garnet–completely transparent. Big fresh cake in the nose. Big, moist cake–not necessarily chocolate, I mean: this could be white cake, this could be pound cake, this could be short-cake–not your stereotypical chocolate or spice descriptor varieties. Glycerin-ey and rich, but not so much fruit jumping out at you. The fruit is a dark plum, really really really bruised and wilted blackberries. A tiny little abrasive mineral edge peeks out late, tempered with smoky dust and banana. I’m going to decant this thing pretty hard. I just feel like the quest for fruit on this wine is something you need to be patient about.

While you’re waiting, here’s some of my other scribblings about this label. You could say I am a bit of a fan.

In the mouth, fruit is not nearly as a shy. Currant and rhubarb make a thick dark stew of savory-sweet goodness, spicy and alive. A boozy salad of tomato and balsamic drift the middle into an acidic finish of originally mellow tannins which grow and grow as you search for heat–which only slightly appears. I’m going to guess this one at 14-9.

If you like Zinfandel–REAL Zinfandel–which hasn’t been subjected to the whoredom we’ve seen this poor variety subjected to in the past 2 decades; if you like Zinfandel with restraint and character and something colored outside the pruney, too-concentrated, alcoholic lines so common today, you should be on Lamborn’s mailing list. This is the old-school dealio.

2014 LAMBORN FAMILY VINEYARDS Zinfandel Howell Mt. Napa Valley 14.9

lamborn.com

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