Maestro My Eyes

Dark ruby garnet–nearly impenetrable with intensely colored edges.  It smells like every other Anniversary Bottling I’ve had.  Granted, this is only the third one I can remember: J. Lohr’s 40th, Caymus 40, an now Mondavi’s 50th.  Fat, round, fleshy dullness surrounding forward fruit.  A conundrum you say?  No.  This is crowd-pleasing wine.  This is the body people want in a good-looking, easy-bling-factor wine you give more consideration to before the capsule is cut than once it is in the glass.  I mean… syrah, zinfandel, barbera, merlot… who knows what’s in this thing.  I would be shocked if it is BDX-5 or fewer.  And if it IS mostly cab?  It’s… um… made in a style I am not comfortable even mentioning in the same breath as Mondavi Cabernet.  Gobs of chocolate, tobacco, blackberry and 32 other wine-blogger yum-words, a teensy layer of ambivalent chalky gripe clouding the somewhat alcoholic buttermilk girth.  I’m  going to guess a nice safe 14-5 on the label.  I’m really dying to know what’s in this.

In the mouth, everything runs as planned along the safe Anniversary Route until a wallop of peppery burn kicks in.  And it kicks in early and earnestly.  Opulent spice–none of which was apparent in the nose–plunge sweet, jammy berry into a suitor’s death-march at the arm of those ridiculous–albeit somewhat shallow–tannins.  This is a perfunctory–almost mechanical–Music for the Masses bottling that could be made in Graton.  Or Modesto.

2013 ROBERT MONDAVI WINERY ‘Maestro’ 50th Anniv. Napa Valley 14.5


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