Mourvedre Suspended

Medium ruby and slightly staining.  Greasy, grimy, fat tire and dirt road rise up headily in the nose, blasting phenomenal honeysuckle and dusty rose potpourri floral. A green-leafy vegetal, bright and vibrant: arugula, chopped and salted on a plate of olive oil and burnt butter.

For years I’ve said Contra Costa County grows some of the best wines in the world in their bottomless sand and don’t forget: I just got back from a week in Nice, where Bandol reigns supreme.  I’ve had some good Mourvedre lately, and this is right up there at the top.  So many of the Central Coast versions of this variety are over-worked, flabby and terribly extracted–like they’re all trying to be Ballard Canyon Syrahs or South Edna Valley depth-charges.  This version manages depth and layer without succumbing to these ills.  It does show every inch of its 14-5, but does it delicately and with prettiness, never losing sight of fruit and focus.

In the mouth, bitter density and a cinnamon burn seek to evade the buttery ripe fruit, but it steamrolls all–slinging nutty nectar into far acidic corners, where the Euro funk shows itself again, fading off into rusty-steel strewth.  Fruit is bright, but flaccidly belieing the date on the bottle.  Enjoy now-thru-5 years.

2015 DROPOUT WINES Mourvedre Castanho Vineyard Contra Costa County 14.5


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