Baby Steps Are Best

Deep medium garnet seriously bricking.  Fat nose of cinnamon and nutmeg and slathered chocolate frosting.  Definite polish, but vibrant and beautiful with some air.  Quite closed-in upon opening.  Minty sage and wet conifer come in under the sweetness, giving away something border-lining on flabby but never crossing all the way over.  It retains such vertical stalwart-ness with its acid and verve it never topples to obese.  But rich and round it is.

In almost any wine situation–from entry-level Pinots and Chards through Chianti, Spanish Tempranillo bottlings and even in Cabernet ranks–the bottling with less time in oak will be my favorite.  This is not to say I am against oak, no way!  Oak is a lovely compliment to wine and they perform together magically.  I’m not even talking about wines which have extended oak infusion from new oak (although that is the way everyone is going to read this).  I am talking about extended aging in neutral oak.  MOST of the time, you put a regular release and a riserva in front of me and I will pick the cheaper version.  Why?  Well, that’s a dumb question.  Go taste them.  Go buy a Chianti, a Chianti Classico and A Chianti Classico Riserva and taste them.  Go buy a Crianza and a Reserva and a Gran Reserva.  Go buy Cherry Tart and Cherry Pie.  I like fruit.  I don’t like prune reduction and flabby genteel sipping liquid.  I like WINE.

In the mouth, grating tannins still attack nearly at entry, while fruit is thinning dangerously and comes off more as smooth round alcohol.  You saw the color of this thing, right?  And I’ve only owned it for 6 years, so who knows what sort of provenance it endured in its youth.  Still, a beautiful wine, very agreeable with my lasagna and marinara.  If you’ve got’em: drink’em.

2006 LE PATURNIE Sangiovese Rosso Di Montalcino DOC Italy  13.0


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