Beautiful clear garnet, light and lovely with basically no edge. One of those wines the first spash–the instant you pour it–you exclaim, “THIS is the what Grenache looks like!!” (true story, ask my girlfriend) Lighter than BOTH of the most recent pinots (Maryetta and Three Saints), crystal sparkling clear and just the loveliest shade of pink-garnet. A Euro-rusticness flows effortlessly off razor-sharp stemmy briar and fresh-picked vegetal. Tinged in artisanal cola and cherry lip-balm, the gorgeousness of the fruit fairly LEAPS out of the glass at you.
Whatever has happened at Concilience, they are starting to really woo me. The Syrah is poured BTG at several local resties I frequent, and although I generally don’t write about BTG selections unless they seriously muss with me, I have had it several times and the last time I did so, I *almost* wrote about it–I was so wooed. Impressed with the clarity and cleanliness and focus and P-P and AL. You see… Consilience in its former evolution made some great wines but they were all plagued with a miserable extraction and ripeness. Along with those two came AL’s in the 16’s and anyone who reads me regularly knows my sensitivity to oxidation. I still have some in the cellar. Seriously need to be opened.
But back to the Grenache. In the mouth, a clean, thin and refreshing entry washes like icy surf over the palate. Fruit immediately begins to show, swelling to epic proportions but maintaining a steely focus. Never slutty, never fat, never stepping outside except to flirt with a steamy briar. There is no incredible rise or fall, no outsides or insides, no flaws, no obtuse points, no disappointments, but also no mind-boggling greatness either. It just does its job from 8 AM til 4 PM, answers the phone during lunch, and comes to company picnics on weekends. Stunning raspberry fruit melds perfectly with wet charcoal and the brightest crispest red bell pepper you’ve ever had. Sweet and lovely and thin–yes THIN: that is one of the beauties of it, it is THIN all the way through. So sick of heavy ponderous over-wrought wines! This thing is brilliantly fruited and THIN! It is a GOOD thin! Last night’s Pinot was a bad thin, this is good thin. Tannins? Not really. This isn’t Ballard Canyon. I’m guessing Los Alamos or possibly SMV, but clarity of fruit speaks Los Alamos to me. AL? I’m guessing 14-1.
2012 CONSILIENCE Grenache Santa Barbara County 14-5